Diving in Cozumel
One of the most notable features of Cozumel's underwater landscape is the health of the reefs themselves. The majority of Cozumel's dive sites lie within the 30,000 acre marine park, and enjoy a no-touch, no-take policy, But protection is only half the story. It is the steady flow of oceanic water washing over the reefs that promotes life and growth, while also supplying the excellent water clarity divers crave. Healthy reefs mean healthy fish populations, and these waters are home to more than 100 types of coral and 260-plus species of fish.
Another unique aspect of Cozumel's underwater landscape is the configuration of the coral structures. As the topography transitions from shallow reefs to high-relief coral heads, these don't take on the typical spur-and-groove configuration. Instead, the corals grow upwards and outwards in convoluted patterns that create maze-like networks of canyons, swim throughs and arches. The outer edges of these coral castles often present wall-like vertical faces, but these faces are often riddled with crevices, caverns and vertical chimneys. These structures shelter a variety of marine life, and Cozumel is one of the best places in the Caribbean to see larger grouper, which roam the reefs with no fear of meeting hook and line or speargun. A common first-dive profile might involve a game of follow-the-leader through clefts in the reef line to overlooks of blue water. Second dives might be a drift across a mid-depth coral ridge such as Cedar Pass, or an exploration of fish-laden coral gardens such as Dalila or the Palancar Horseshoe.
A number of waterfront hotels and other locations provide access for shore diving on sites within easy swimming distance of the shore. These include both reefs and several samll artificial reefs that hold a vareity of fish. All boat diving diving in Cozumel is drift diving. Standard practice is to stop the dive boat and drop divers far enough up current of the target site to allow divers ample time for a comfortable descent. An in-water dive master deploys a tethered surface marker, and the dive group is carried along the reef by the currents. As divers complete their underwater tour, they are picked up by the waiting boat. This process makes making navigation easy, and save for the flight-like sensation of the drift, there is no sense of water movement as divers exit, as both boat and body are moving with the flow.
One site where divers may want to hang out rather than drift away is the artificial reef known as the Felipe Xicoténcatl. The 184-foot former Mexican Navy minesweeper sits upright and intact on a white-sand bottom near Chankanaab Bay. The wreck has been placed to allow experienced divers to explore the interior on guided dives, with permanent lines for reference. Interior spaces hold large schools of glassy sweepers and large grouper. Because guides can bring no more than four divers into the wreck at a time, it’s advisable to reserve a tour well in advance. Night diving reveals another facet of Cozumel's reefs, as octopus, lobster, moray eels and a menagerie of crustaceans come out after dark. This is also a good time to hunt for one of the area's signature finds, the splendid toadfish. Just four to six inches in length, these homely reef dwellers are endemic to Cozumel, and can usually be found lurking in small holes where the reef meets the sand. At night, they emit croaking sounds in hopes of attracting a mate.